|
|
|
bamboo bridge |
1.4
MB |
Steady
steps across a bamboo toll bridge (tourists, 2000 kip) over the Nam
Song (river) in Vang Vieng. |
bamboo
drag |
730
KB |
Freshly
cut bamboo dragging behind a twelve-year-old's bicycle outside Nong
Khiaw, in the northern hills. |
bathing
buffalo |
1.4
MB |
Bell-laden
water buffalo enjoy a late afternoon bath in Muong Houn. |
bus
full of life |
1.5
MB |
Lively
debate (with a mouth full of orange) in a passenger van, in lovely,
dusty Udomxai bus station. Here we met a 14 year old Laos girl who
was attaching herself in series to a string of western tourists, some
naive, some lecherous. |
bus
stop cock |
1.4
MB |
Rooster
sounding its horn at a bus stop in the middle of nowhere, on the 'road'
north of Pak Beng. |
cargo
boat drone |
1
MB |
The
hypnotic hum and rush of the cargo boat we caught down the treacherous
Mekong. We were the only passangers. Eddies, whirlpools, exposed rocks
-- our pilot constantly crisscrossed the river. |
chinese
memorial band |
1.3
MB |
Enthusiastic
noisemakers for what appeared to be Taoist ancestor veneration ceremony
at a riverfront festival, Ventiane. |
chinese
opera |
1
MB |
Chinese
opera in Ventiane: splendid costumes, lovely makeup, cute actors,
but a terrible sound system, |
cotton
spinning |
1
MB |
Woman
spinning cotton (or hemp?) on her porch, very poor village outside
Nong Khiaw. |
cotton
whisking |
1
MB |
Farther
down the road, another woman beat and whisked cotton to prepare it
for spinning. |
dusk
walk home |
1.4
MB |
Evening
walk with fellow travelers through the gloaming. A magical walk, we
were surrounded by tall limesonte cliffs topped with old-growth teak
forest. |
full
moon gambling |
1.1
MB |
Animal-dice
gambling at Muang Sing's notorious full moon festival. I won a few
thousand kip by putting cash on the right animal; the game worked
like roulette. |
full
moon MC |
1.1
MB |
A
popular MC at one of the disturbingly loud stages at the full moon
festival. The reverb just kills me. |
full
moon PAs |
1.4
MB |
The
delightful cacaphony in between two or three stages. Volume = civilization,
apparently. |
guardian
of the well |
1.2
MB |
Afierce
guardian (an animist totem dog) guards a well on a pilgram's trail
outside Muang Sing;- we stopped with everyone else to placate him
and accept his purifying water. |
hotel
noodling |
1.4
MB |
Lazy
sun-down noodling echoes through the empty cooridors of our hotel
on the edge of town, Vang Vieng. |
hotel
ominous |
570
KB |
Dubious
reverbations and resonance in a recently constructed hotel. |
ice
cream cart |
1.1
MB |
That
eternal question, how to appear casual while chasing a wooden ice
cream cart through town... Remember the Mosquito Coast; ice = civilization. |
meat
market |
1.1
MB |
Meat
is chopped and flys are waved off with plastic bags tied to the ends
of chopsticks (in a Luang Prabang market). |
mekong
rockets |
2
MB |
The
almost -- almost -- soothing hum of the 'rocket boats' of the Mekong.
Very shallow draft; very sharp bow; very big, very loud outboard engine.
Helmets recommended, if only occasionally provided. Earplugs recommended,
never provided. |
Muang
Sing Clapton |
1
MB |
I
remember the joy of my first amplified guitar noodling. I can only
imagine that of this teenager allowed to noodle while setting up the
PA at the Muang Sing full moon festival. |
PA
chant-a-thon |
1.4
MB |
At
a hilltop Buddhist festival outside Muang Sing, a pair of monks worked
as a tag team alternately harranguing the crowd for donations -- and
chanting in bursts when successful. |
Pak
Tha dock |
1.3
MB |
One
of many hundreds of minutes we spent on a half-submerged floating
dock in Pak Tha, waiting vainly for a few other tourists to split
the cost of a small-draft boat to navigate up the Nam Tha (river). |
Pathet
Lao cave |
540
KB |
Our
guide tosses a rock down a scree slope, at one mouth of Thom Pha Tok,
a vast cave where the Pathet Lao sheltered during clandestine American
bombing. Unexploded ordinace ('UXO') still litters Laos and kills
people and livestock every year. |
physical
ed |
600
KB |
Children
being marched and herded in the courtyard of a school in Luang Prabang. |
pigging
out |
1
MB |
Pigs
get their dinner behind the house, on the confluence of the Nam Tha
and Mekong. |
plumbing
resonance |
1
MB |
I
swear, I'm going to do an album based on sounds of plumbing and irrigation
pipes. This one, in a hotel in a town in the north. |
radio
free laos |
1.4
MB |
Recorded
directly from a $2 radio I picked up in Chiang Mai, in vain hope that
we might use it to learn the results of the US presidential election.
This is what I got instead. |
ricefield
wander |
1.1
MB |
A
morning walk through the karst-hill bordered fallow rice fields outside
of Vang Vieng. |
silvershop
serenade |
1.2
MB |
As
well as we understood, these kids hanging out in the jewelry store
in tiny Muong Houn were playing Thai pop songs. We played some of
our silly compositions back. |
teeter
totter tipsy |
1.4
MB |
Ten
kids, one makeshift teeter totter. |
telegraph hill |
1.4
MB |
Insistent,
consistent insects on the side of a hill in Udomxai. |
tuk tuk in Ventiane |
1
MB |
Thrum,
grunt, and roar: say, it must be a three-wheeled 'tuk tuk' rickshaw. |
voice
of laos |
1.4
MB |
No
worries if you don't have a doorstep, the news will be broadcast on
PA speakers at 6 a.m. |
volleymitton |
1.4
MB |
Kids
playing an amazing game we saw all over SE Asia: imagine volleyball
played with a bamboo badmitton shuttlecock (or whilffle ball) , but
no hands are allowed. Hacky sack (sorry, 'footbagging') is but a pale
shadow! |
wake
up call |
1.6
MB |
Early
to bed, early to rise -- especially when river traffic picks up at
first light, to the disgruntlement of the pigs outside your window. |
walking
home from school |
1
MB |
...in
the company of several hundred fascinated school children, in bucolic
Muong Houn. |
Xieng
Thong vespers |
1.6
MB |
The
jeweled golden sunset at Wat Xieng Thong, the most ornate Buddhist
complex in Luang Prabang, surpassed any description. As darkness obscured
the soaring, Thai-influenced main temple, a chapel to the side was
used for evening chant. I was invited to sit in by friendly monks
eager to practice their English. |